Though fruit-driven, forward and accessible, this surprises with the chewy density of its midpalate, and the depth and texture of the finish. It begins with somewhat sweet with candy flavors of raspberries, red currants and Bing cherries. Then it opens up, adding moist earth, minerals, flint and wisps of chocolaty smoke. Firm acidity and a balanced structure complete this classically proportioned and well-defined wine. An amazing 51,000 cases were made.——P.G.(4/1/2008)—— 89
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