The 2003 Lagrein Lindenburg is a medium-bodied effort with a soft core of dark cherries, smoke and earthiness. It offers good length without the complexity or depth of the region’s top bottlings. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Alois Lageder is one of Alto Adige’s best known producers. After having tasted the entire range of wines twice I can only say I was underwhelmed by the wines, most of which are simple and lack any real character.Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Lagrein tends towards plump red cherry fruit aromas but is also an excellent vehicle for expressing territorial and winemaking distinctions. In this wine, for example, delicate flinty-mineral notes from alluvial soils from near the Talvera River and well-integrated oak (18 months) create many layers of complexity.——M.L.(9/1/2007)—— 89