The Selbachs' 2005 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Beerenauslese offers aromas of honey, candied grapefruit rind, site- and botrytis-typical smokiness, and spicy pungency. On the palate, it brings together with phenomenal intensity candied citrus rind, white raisin, vanilla cream, honey, marzipan, and malt yet also a reservoir of remarkable fresh, juicy, apply fruit such as the Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese, too, somehow managed to tap. The finish pours on fruit and honey with ginger spice and smoky accents. This superb wine doesn't display the ravishingly liqueur-like purity of the corresponding Badstube, nor the eloquence of the Sonnenuhr, but then again, it's such early days for these ... “For me, 2005 is a singular vintage in my career,” says Johannes Selbach, “in that it is ripe, multi-faceted, and has excellent acidity. You can pick any of the other recent classics – 1975, 1990 ... . Each of the benchmark years is great in its way, however here you have a combination that is fun to drink now, ten years from now, and in thirty years as well. It remains to be seen, but I think 2005 is in another league.” Readers will indeed be hard pressed this year to find another address with this many consistently outstanding wines, and when has there ever been a more diverse and at the same time magnificent array of Auslesen? In their upper reaches, the Selbach 2005s seem – like Zilliken's, but in their own unique way – to chart a trajectory beyond the normal course for their vintage. The harvest here extended from mid-October to mid-November. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A tangy dessert Riesling, this matches candied lime, mint, apricot and cream notes with sweetness and a lively structure. Well-integrated and elegant, with a mouthwatering finish. Lovely expression of place. Best from 2009 through 2040. 5 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add