One of the Magnien domaine’s two grand crus (the other Clos St. Denis, which I found marginally less impressive), their 2005 Clos de la Roche offered an unusually fat, luscious example of this cru, full of dark chocolate and liqueur-like black fruits and with amazingly sweet length, tinged by coconut, caramel and mocha. I cannot say that I could detect a mineral or animal dimension, but there was certainly imposing girth, and a complexity of ripe fruit, spice, and torrefactive elements.PLEASE NOTE: Due to a technical difficulty, I have been regrettably unable to access my taped tasting notes on the enormous range of wines that Frederic Magnien vinifies under his own name as a negociant. Their style is very similar to that of the Michel Magnien wines. A number of his ostensibly lesser cuvees offer striking richness for their price, and a lengthy line-up of celebrated crus included numerous not surprisingly impressive – and indeed flamboyant – wines. There is among these, however, a tendency toward extraneous, toasted-oak sweetness and occasional flirtation with over-ripeness, that will not appeal to some tasters. But readers craving extroverted and sweetly-rich Pinot are going to find a lot to like at Maison Frederic Magnien.The wines Frederic Magnien makes at his family estate seem to exhibit slightly less flamboyance than many of those he vinifies as a negociant, but certainly they are formidably, at times almost overbearingly, palate-staining, with abundant underlying tannins and in most instances lavish sweet spiciness of oak. Due to a technical malfunction, my notes on several of the wines from this domaine are sadly missing.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-42-55-42-93.
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