The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli is a big, strapping wine loaded with dark fruit, smoke, new leather and minerals. The Montosoli, from one of Montalcino’s top sites, shows considerable density and richness. The tannins build on the finish, rounding out a gorgeous Brunello that achieves a brilliant combination of power and elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2022. This a beautiful set of wines from Altesino, a historic producer that in recent years has made noticeable strides to improve quality. Altesino ages its Brunellos in cask, while the wines in the Altesi range are aged in smaller French oak barrels. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Dry herbs and cherry nose with an impressive tannic structure and balanced alcohol and acidity. Good ageing potential.

We preferred Altesino’s base Brunello to its cru selection from the estate’s special 10-acre vineyard—but only by the smallest of margins. Montosoli is a tremendous wine with impressive intensity and staying power that takes shape as cherry, tobacco, spice and bursting blueberry. Drink from 2010 through 2020.——M.L.(6/1/2009)—— 93