A serious, crisp, Italian-inspired white is the 2005 Venge Family Reserve Bianco Spettro, a blend of 43% Chardonnay, 42% Sauvignon Blanc, and the rest Viognier and Marsanne. Dry and crisp, with loads of fresh fruit aromas, tangy acidity, no evidence of wood, and a zesty, medium-bodied finish, it is a handsome, food-friendly white to enjoy over the next several years. Previously recommended: 2002 Venge Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (97), 2003 Venge Family Reserve Merlot (90).Saddleback Cellars tel. (707) 944-1305; fax (707) 944-1325; Venge Winery tel. (707) 967-1008