From chalky, pebbly and alluvial soils below the Peuillets and Narbantons premier crus, the 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Bourgeots displays a bitter-sweet, herbal personality, with wild fennel, spinach, toasted nuts and fresh blackberry informing an impressively dense palate. For all of its rather somber character and suggestions of bitterness, this offers generosity of texture, finishing length and diversity of flavor. Malolactic fermentations took place without delay and Patrick Bize had bottled many of the wines already in November. A significant portion of whole clusters were included in most of the fermentations. Wines from this address seldom make concessions to early drinkability or cheap thrills, and the inherently concentrated, darkly toned 2005s are certainly no exception. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70.