Baglio di Pianetto Piana Cembali Rosso Sicilia IGT, Sicily, Italy

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The 2005 Cembali is Nero d’Avola from vineyards near the town of Noto that spends 14 months in French oak. The wine offers up plenty of dark fruit, smoke and scorched earth, but the oak aromas and flavors tend to dominate the wine’s balance, which is a shame as the underlying material is very promising. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Baglio di Pianetto is the Sicilian property of the Marzotto family, who are best known for their highly successful lifestyle brands. The vineyards are located in Pachino, in the province of Siracusa, and Santa Cristina Gela, near Palermo. The estate works with both native and international varieties.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Cembali is usually a spot on expression of Nero d’Avola, one of Sicily’s best and most elaborate, but the 2005 vintage definitely seems on the overripe, alcoholic and jammy side. Ripe fruit aromas, toasted oak and smoked beef jerky push forth from the nose. ——M.L.(3/1/2011)—— 87