In 1994, Deiss fashioned a proprietary white wine called Grand Vin de Altenberg de Bergheim. Only 2000 bottles were produced of this 70% Riesling 20% Gewurztraminer, and 10% Tokay-Pinot Gris blend. According to Marcel Deiss, centuries ago this was the historic blend favored by Alsace's top producers before commercial considerations caused the region to become varietal driven. It is a super wine, with fabulous intensity, a terrific mineral-like perfume, and full-bodied, off-dry flavors. It is hard to believe there are 90 grams of residual sugar as the extremely high acidity balances the sweetness, making the wine taste far dry. It should age for 10-20 years. I applaud Deiss's intention of resurrecting this tradition because the Gewurztraminer does add some fat and ripeness to the classy, backward, steely Riesling. The Tokay-Pinot Gris provides even more texture and body, in addition to aromatic complexity. How interesting it would be to see other top Alsace estates produce proprietary white wine blends. Deiss, breaking with tradition, sold one-half of his crop as futures to his best clients, another innovative move.Readers should realize that the 1994s are exceptionally young, relatively unevolved wines that are just beginning to hint at their potential.Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579
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