The 2011 Casta Diva Cosecha Miel is produced from overripe (and some raisins) 40-year-old Moscatel grapes grown at 200 meters above sea level, and is very marked by its slow fermentation in barrel, where it also stayed for 12 months. It has a very smoky, balsamic nose with aromas of camphor, rosemary and thyme notes that seem to counterbalance the inherent notes of the Moscatel, giving it freshness and making it quite unique. It boasts 130 grams of residual sugar, so it can be a dessert on its own. 30,000 bottles produced. This is the sweet wine that made them famous, and the one produced in bigger volume. Drink 2013-2016.
The winery, created in 1978 by Felipe Gutierrez de la Vega, a literature and music lover – hence all the artistic references in the names of his wines – is one of the most original throughout Spain, with a wide range of wines. They are located in Parcent, in the Marina subzone of Alicante, very close to the sea, between Benidorm and Denia, where the specialty is Moscatel. The zone is very interesting because the vineyards are located at 700 meters altitude and very close to the sea, which contributes to extra freshness. All their vineyards are dry-farmed and pruned in the old goblet or bush style. They only own two hectares but rent and work a further eight. No external yeasts are used for the fermentations. Daughter Violeta, who studied oenology in Bordeaux, is slowly taking over the winemaking from her father and I have the feeling she’s bringing fresh, new ideas. I know she’s searching for high altitude, almost-forgotten, old-Grenache vineyards to produce some personal wines of her own. There are not that many wineries specializing in sweet wines in Spain; this is one of them, and for me, one of the best. Total production is around 100,000 bottles per year. A (not so new) name to follow, as the new wines show a very promising profile. Other than in Jerez, there are not so many wineries specializing in sweet wines in Spain, but Gutierrez de la Vega is one of them. They have traditionally produced a wide range of wines using Moscatel grapes. All their Moscatels, dry and sweet, share the Casta Diva name, with a subtitle to differentiate them. To complete the range, they are doing some sweet red Fondillon, the traditional rancio wine from Alicante produced in a solera system and aged for a minimum of ten years. Gutierrez de la Vega, of course, does it in his special way, and has released some single-vintage Fondillon, until he had enough old blended wine to start bottling the solera.
Importer: Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 297-6713; www.classicalwines.com
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