The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Blanchots Dessus reveals gorgeous textural depth and plushness. It needs time to develop the full breadth of its aromas and flavors, but the wine’s length and persistence suggest it has the raw materials to grow nicely over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Bruno Colin’s 2009s show quite a bit of freshness for the year. The harvest began early, on September 5. The malos were finished in between December 2009 and March 2010. The Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet were bottled before the 2010 harvest, while the rest of the 2009s were bottled in March 2011. I tasted the 2010 Bourgogne Aligote, Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet from steel, while the remainder of the 2010s were in barrel. Colin planned to rack the rest of the 2010s in July and bottle in the winter of 2011/2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Dense oaky nutty nose. Tight and imposing, this concentrated and individual wine shows a nutty, tangy minerality. Quite long.