The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St. Jean is a touch more minerally and pointed than the villages, otherwise it is quite similar, with plenty of villages character and style. Hints of smoke and ash add complexity to the energetic, wiry finish. I especially like the way the Clos St. Jean opens up in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Richard Fontaine began harvesting the 2009s on September 6. The malos were fairly quick and were completed by April 2010. The wines were racked in June and bottled in early September. Perhaps it is inevitable with a total of ten different Chassagne premier crus in the lineup, but in this vintage not all of the wines are markedly different from each other. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446