Hints of botrytis in the form of pungent spice and aromatic prickle, as well as an enhancement of both richness and peppy acidity mark the step to Loosen’s 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese from his collection of Kabinetts. Honey and vanilla cream are partly offset by tart notes of apple skin, although the impression of sweetness in the long finish here is much more obvious than in the corresponding Kabinett. I’d give this superbly-endowed Riesling a decade to demonstrate its (possible) superiority to that wine, though I am sure it will thrive for the better part of two. Ernst Loosen insists he aims to observe an upper limit of 12.5% alcohol for his trocken bottlings, a level that one might have expected was easily achievable in 2008; but in fact, a portion of this vintage’s collection comes close to transgressing it. When it comes to residually sweet Kabinett – a genre in which Loosen has long excelled – his frequently-voiced concerns that “the real thing” was becoming almost impossible (or at least, impossibly expensive) to achieve nowadays certainly do not apply to the 2008 vintage, when his collection of Kabinetts is not only superb, but also lively and feather-light. Indeed, the whole 2008 Loosen Oeuvre – while consisting of fewer wines than usual, with its nobly sweet selections even more (and more spectacularly) focused than usual on Pralat – is superb. What’s more, even cellarmaster Bernard Schug voiced his amazement at just how little sweetness most of the residually sweet wines display.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255