Here’s a wine that scores sky high in drinkability: It is a modern Merlot but avoids being big or brawny. In fact, its structure is just right—solid without being heavy—and the many delicate aromatic nuances are the finishing touches on a pretty picture. Look for forest berry fruit, light toast and loads of almond (refined in oak for 18 months). ——M.L.(4/1/2007)—— 91