Rather Gewurztraminer-like notes of roasted coffee, caraway, and litchi are tinged with vanilla in the nose of Ostertag’s 2009 Pinot Gris Muenchberg A360P, then inform an expansive and initially quite lush palate but are pulled in the finish well below the bass clef bar line as well as slightly dried by the effects of near-15% alcohol. All in all, this remains impressive in its brooding way, and will be quite interesting to experiment with over the next 3-5 years (perhaps among other things to test that by now familiar adage that high alcohol is inimical to good table manners). Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524