The three 1991 Zinfandels are the most reassuringly rich, complex wines I have tasted in years from this historic winery. Made for cellaring, they are enormously endowed, tannic, backward wines with considerable body and concentration. All three promise to be thrilling wines, provided buyers exercise some patience. If you do not mind some tannic bite, they can be enjoyed now. How delighted I am to see such quality re-emerge from Joseph Swan!With its garnet color, the 1991 Zinfandel-Stellwagen Vineyard even looks different than the others. More developed, it is the easiest of this trio to drink. The big, smoky, cedary, black fruit-scented nose soars from the glass. This spectacularly rich, unctuous, remarkably concentrated Zinfandel offers admirable body and glycerin, as well as softer tannins than its two siblings. Drink this gloriously rich, full throttle wine over the next decade.Tel. (707) 573-3747
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