The latest installment of a pure Grenache Mas Amiel classic, their 2007 Maury Vintage had only been in bottle for two weeks when I tasted. At 16% alcohol, it is slightly lighter than this wine has been in the past, a result of attempting to preserve freshness and promote finesse. Intense aromas of black raspberry and cherry preserves, mint, and licorice, lead to a pure-fruited and rich palate impression with refreshingly herbal accents, lots of vivacity, and impeccably judged sweetness that will permit its adaptation to a wide range of desserts as intended, yet keep it from being in the least cloying when enjoyed on its own. The style and vintage character seem to reinforce one another, and this should be worth cellaring for as much as 6-8 years, even though the overwhelming majority will be consumed while the wine still displays the vivid fruitiness for which this cuvee is known. Stephane Gallet has left Mas Amiel, and long-time associate Nicolas Raffy moved into the role of vineyard manager and cellar manager. For his 2007 vintage dry reds, owner Olivier Decelle solicited advice from Stephane Derenoncourt and the especially fruit-forward character of the dry reds from that vintage may be in part on account of changes made in the fermentative and extractive regimen, involving among other aspects only very limited pump-overs. For 2008, a portion of the Carerades will be matured in foudres in lieu of smaller barrels. In vintage 2006, Decelle employed the consulting services of Michel Rolland. The current Mas Amiel non-vintage renditions of ten and fifteen year old wooded are very much in keeping with the character and quality described in issue 173, so I have omitted new tasting notes. Like most of the wines at this address, they represent excellent values. I remain relatively unimpressed (particularly given their high prices) by Mas Amiel’s older, very late-released vintage bottlings.A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
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