Weingut Herbert Messmer Selektion Schawer Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

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Lime, grapefruit, kiwi, and fresh apple scent the Messmer 2008 Burrweiler Schawer Riesling Spatlese, which positively billows like a sail on the palate, refreshing and invigorating, spreading a broad coating of citrus oils, pit fruit essences, and sheer fructose, then playing its fruit off against saline and stony notes that persist into the finish. Further complexity might be revealed if this weren’t so prominently sweet, but then perhaps it wouldn’t be quite so amazingly delicate. I would personally treat it as I would a corresponding top-notch Mosel, not revisiting for a decade and counting on a couple of decades’ longevity. It had been too long since I’d seen Gregor Messmer (although I am at his winery annually) and I was encouraged by witnessing him professing his rededication to his vineyards. That said, after a 2007 collection that was the best I had tasted here in a number of years, I found that some of these 2008s – which were harvested between the 18th and 30th of October – leaned rather sharply in the direction of leanness and Sauvignon greenness and shared with many of their fellow Pfalz trocken Rieslings an extremely tart brightness.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300