Weingut Herbert Messmer Selektion Schawer Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3161

What a difference residual sugar seems to make: the 2004 Burrweiler Schawer Riesling Spatlese displays a substantial jump in aromatic intensity vis a vis its trocken predecessors. Vividly ripe nectarine, spiced white peach and sweet floral aromas set the stage of a palate of utmost poise, almost weightless yet saturated with nectarine, fresh lime, honey and wet stone minerality. Long, succulent and refined, this shows a fascinating, reverberating call and response of fruit and flowers with slate minerality. As in so many recent vintages, this wine is superb and will repay a couple of decades’ aging. (And also as in recent vintages, the residual sugar is remarkably high – 87 grams to be exact – yet the balance is superb.) The astonishingly high quality achieved at this estate in the last several vintages – near the apex of the Pfalz pecking order – represent a hard act to follow. There have been a few personnel changes: first Werner Sebastian and then Michael Leibrecht have departed as vineyard manager and cellar master respectively, and Gregor Mebmer’s brother Martin (who showed me the wines this year) has joined the team. For whatever reason, there were not as many exciting wines this year as in other recent years, although there is one, by now almost predictably, that must on no account be missed. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300