Valdicava’s 2001 Rosso di Montalcino, as always, is exemplary. A deep, dark garnet, its lovely plum, leather, herb and mineral nose is admirably pure and focused, and the smooth and powerful flavors are more those of a Brunello than a Rosso di Montalcino. Long, intense, and vibrant, this is notable juice, and will last until 2008. Those looking for the finest in this appellation might want to consider reserving the 1999 Valdicava Brunello – the best yet – in advance. Vincenzo Abruzzesi is Montalcino’s number one over-achiever with winner after winner since 1988. The secret – a willingness, indeed eagerness, to spend whatever it takes for quality in addition to utilizing several of Italy’s outstanding consultants, winemaker Attilio Pagli and agronomist Andrea Paoletti (the former Antinori vineyard manager). Pagli is unfortunately little known to the larger public, but no oenologist in Italy has made so many excellent wines since the mid-1980’s. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907