The generically-labeled Selbach-Oster 2004 Riesling Spatlese (not yet bottled when I tasted) should offer outstanding value. It unites fruit from Zeltinger Himmelreich, - where this year Johannes Selbach decided not to essay a vineyard-designated Spatlese or Auslese – with Graacher Domprobst (as a result of which, for the first time in a long while, there is no 2004 Spatlese dedicated to that site). Peach, lemon, and nut oil aromas lead to a palate almost frothy in its delicacy, exhibiting a wonderful combination of peach, vanilla custard, salt, and wet stone character. The finish is long and luscious in its ripe peach and pink grapefruit, and tastes halbtrocken. “Until one gets into the 1980s,” comments Selbach, “our Spatlesen had only thirty or thirty-five grams of residual sugar, at the most – occasionally – forty, but never with the intention that the wines should taste overtly sweet” and that is the direction in which he is returning. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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