Tasted from a half-bottle with owner Jacques Thienpont and Fiona Morrison MW at the property, the 1986 Le Pin put in a quite dazzling display. Who says demi-bouteilles cannot age! Still youthful in color, I was smitten by the precocious and intoxicating bouquet armed with seductive blueberry, vanilla and violet scents. Interestingly, it reminded me of a fine Chambertin and that Burgundy theme continues onto the palate. Like the nose, the palate remains very exuberant and lively, belying its age and disproving the theory that Le Pin cannot mature as well as other Pomerols. This is underpinned by filigree, quite firm tannin that are counterpoised by a sensual Burgundy-like texture, the finish offering wonderful precision and intensity. There is just a sense of effortlessness here. Probably at 30 years, it is at its peak. The 1986 Le Pin is a sterling success. For those fortunate enough to have bottles, well, you are in for a real treat. Tasted June 2016.

One of the more structured examples of Le Pin, and still surprisingly youthful for a wine that critics say needs to be drunk in its first 5-10 years, this dark garnet-colored wine has notes of licorice, loamy soil scents, sweet black cherries and currants along with some truffle and vanilla. The wine is medium-bodied with a certain firmness and delineation, and less of the charm, glycerin, and opulence that the ripe, more generous vintages provide. The finish is long and almost Medoc-like. Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last taste, 12/01.