A brilliant wine from the late, great Pierre Ramonet, the 1971 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean (Rouge) wafts from the glass with an explosive bouquet of ripe red cherries, grilled game bird, orange rind, ginger and peony. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a rich, textural core of fruit, melting tannins and succulent acids, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. Deep and powerful, it exemplifies the under-appreciated merits of red Chassagne.