This Eric Dunham/Kyle MacLachlan collaboration opens a bit lighter and less ripe than in previous vintages, perhaps a reflection of the cooler, higher-acid conditions of 2008. Firm, tart berry fruit is annotated with scents of stem and earth. Tannins are hard and astringent. This needs more time in the bottle, and should improve. ——P.G.(2/1/2012)—— 89