Weingut Pfeffingen Estate Riesling Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

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The Eymaels’ 2009 Riesling trocken – largely from the Nussriegel vineyard – is brightly lemony, invigoratingly saline, and displays hints of underlying pumpkin. A hint of orange rind extends its finish. A glossy texture and welcome, palpable sense of extract keep the acidity here from becoming piquing. I would plan on enjoying this over the next 2-3 years, finding its relative sense of levity and sheer refreshment more than sufficient reasons to prefer it over some of its more ambitious dry siblings. Jan Eymael elected to perform significant leaf-removal in order to permit his crop – especially the Scheurebe – to hang free, with the result, he explained, “that botrytis never really could establish itself” and the range of nobly sweet Scheurebe one generally looks forward to at this address is absent from 2009. Total acid levels are moderate this year, but the low pH levels in the grapes led Eymael to give his dry wines longer skin contact than usual to help buffer them. “Bear in mind that we’re one of the warmest spots in the Pfalz,” notes Eymael in connection with this year’s early, September 28, commencement of his Riesling harvest, though picking continued for nearly three weeks.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463