The L’Oustal 2004 Minervois La Liviniere originates in over-100 year old Grenache vines, with just a bit of Carignan and Syrah. With a vividly mincemeat-like nose of candied citrus, prune, white raisin, and smoked meat, this mounts such a concentrated attack on the palate that while the taster is swept away by the sheer richness of its endless folds of super-ripe black fruit, a bit of warmth – along with meaty, chalky character – emerges as collateral damage in the finish. But surely it’s early days for this wine, even though I hesitate to speculate how long it might be best to hold it.Claude Fonquerle and his oenolgist Philippe Cambie earned their stripes in Chateauneuf du Pape, and in 2002 began to vinify in Minervois. The wines – like their labels – are flamboyant, almost over-the-top, and utterly striking.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler