The 2006 Vermentino di Sardegna Albithia offers a highly unusual expression of Vermentino that at times seems to have more in common with Sauvignon. Crushed rocks, lime peel, mint, flowers and apricots are all woven together in a rich, lush fabric. The wine possesses lovely weight and density, which is remarkable considering it was aged in steel. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Proprietors Heide and Francesco Siclari make intense, powerful wines from their 50 hectares of vineyards. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

This fragrant Vermentino opens with green notes of kiwi, lime and papaya. There are some grassy or herbal notes in there as well and the wine also offers pretty mineral tones and crisp acidity.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 86