Von Kunow’s 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Beerenauslese will probably be auctioned, although no determination had yet been made in this regard at the time when I tasted it. Exhibiting bread-like, meaty, musky aspects of botrytis on the nose, along with salts, lemon oil, and apricot paste, this Beerenauslese takes a sharp turn in the direction of caramelized peach and pear on the palate, maintaining overtones of sweat, musk, and other animalistic manifestations of noble rot. Salty mineral notes help liven the essentially caramelized fruit finish, but there is also a bit of bitterness from the botrytis. The overall level of richness and concentration exhibited here are formidable, but the wine is far less winsome or inscrutable than its sibling from the Scharzhofberg. Also recommended: 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($36.00; 86), 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett ($20.00; 85).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463
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