A stark change of pace, the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot that comes primarily from the gravel soils of the Phinny Hill Vineyard. Ripe, lifted and perfumed aromatically, with notions of plum, violets, mineral, smoke tobacco and sappy herbs and flowers, it is a big, mouth-filling Cabernet that has rich, sweet fruit, racy acidity and outstanding length. Give bottles another 2-3 years and then enjoy over the following decade. Drink 2015-2024.
These top-notch efforts are made by Greg Harrington, with help from assistant winemaker Brandon Moss, and always show the fresher, more edgy and lean side to the region. Normally fermented with varying degrees of whole cluster and aged in neutral oak, they have Old World, classical profiles and will benefit from short-term cellaring. While I’ve been drinking the Rhone blends from this estate for years, this was the first time I’ve been able to taste Greg’s Bordeaux releases. The house style certainly persists and the wines all show firm, concentrated and age-worthy profiles. From a much warmer vintage, Harrington’s 2009s are more voluptuous and textured than the 2010s, yet still play in the same classically styled ball park of the estate. While more approachable today, I think they will have a similar, if not broader, drink window than the 2010s. Time will tell but at the moment, I generally like the 2009s more due to their fruit, yet I still think the tannin quality in the 2010s is better.
Tel. (509) 876-2427; www.gramercycellars.com
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