Dehlinger Goldridge Vineyard Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, USA

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The 1996 Pinot Noir Goldridge Vineyard exhibits an impressive dark ruby/purple color, and a superb bouquet of jammy plums/cherries intermixed with earthy underbrush and melted chocolate. With airing, Asian spices enter the melange. This is a chewy, medium to full-bodied, plump, hedonistic Pinot (14.5% alcohol) that can be drunk now as well as over the next 5-6 years. Dehlinger is a top-notch albeit somewhat unheralded source for delicious Pinot Noir. While some of the new Dijon clones have been planted (particularly Clone 777), Dehlinger's Pinots are all from such old California clones (which originally came from Burgundy) as Martini, Swan, and Pommard. There can be as many as four separate Pinot Noirs if Dehlinger decides to produce a Reserve bottling, as he did in 1994 and 1997. In 1996, there are three efforts, Goldridge Vineyard (1,150 cases), Estate (990 cases), and Octagon Vineyard (140 cases). What is so likable about the Dehlinger Pinot Noirs is that they are made in a richly fruity, chocolatey style with plenty of spice, plush textures, and copious quantities of glycerin and alcohol. They are both user-friendly and faithful to the varietal's trademark. Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918.