It is easy to pigeon-hole Dehlinger as a Pinot Noir winery, but that ignores the fact that this winery turns out top-notch Cabernet Sauvignon and an innocuously named proprietary blend, in addition to several superb Syrahs. However, it is their Pinot Noir that most excites consumers. Dehlinger produces as many as four cuvees of Pinot Noir - the Estate, Goldridge Vineyard Estate, Octagon Vineyard (from a hilltop parcel of vines near an old, spooky house in which the Adams family would feel comfortable), and from time to time, Goldridge Vineyard 20 Year Old Vines. The latter wine was last produced in 1994. The 1995 Pinot Noirs reveal a more meaty, animal, plant material side to their aromatics and flavors than the flamboyantly fruit-driven 1994s. For example, the 1995 Pinot Noir Goldridge Vineyard Estate is a medium ruby-colored wine with a big, spicy, earthy, cinnamon, smoky-scented nose, rich, jammy, silky-textured fruit, medium body, and a lush finish. It should drink well for 5 years. Looking at the equation of points for value, Tom Dehlinger's wines still represent some of the best bargains in California. I can imagine there must be immense pressure on him to increase prices given both the quality of his wines, and the fact that he is dead center in the Russian River, a viticultural region that is as hot as a firecracker when it comes to popularity. His upcoming line-up includes many enticing entities. I suspect the overall level of Pinot Noir is slightly below the splendid 1994s, but that may be because the 1994s are so open and showy, in contrast to the 1995s, which are slightly more retarded in their development. Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918