Maison Nicolas Potel Les Petits Monts, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, France

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A 2005 Vosne Romanee Les Petits Monts – assembled in tank when I tasted – offers high-toned black fruit essences, distilled plum, smoke, floral and spice aromas. Tasting of spiced blackberries and prune, it evinces fungal and mossy, forest floor inner-mouth aromas as it reacts to the air. Rich and palate saturating, it comes up a bit disappointing in its finish, but certainly only on account of its recent racking and sulfuring. There will be a (by Potel’s standards) whopping 225 cases of this. It’s worth pointing out that this vineyard above Richebourg and between Reignots and Cros Parantoux – like several of those from Vosne’s highest altitudes – was not even marked on the vineyard maps of most reference books until the past decade. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.