Aromas of smoke and tar lead to expressive notes of ripe dark cherries and minerals in the fully-flavored 2004 Poggio al Moro, Santini’s entry-level bottling. Although it is fairly rich and concentrated on the palate, the high quality of the vintage is felt in this wine’s outstanding overall balance. Made from a blend of 40% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet, 20% Syrah and 10% Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016. In just a few years Enrico Santini has emerged as one of Bolgheri’s most promising producers. The wines are made with the assistance of consulting oenologist Attilio Pagli and are likely to get even better as these organically farmed vineyards gain age. This is another of the new, young estates that will be fascinating to follow over the next few years. Importer: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000

Lean and almost weedy. The ripeness is in question from the start. In the mouth, it pulses with awkward, green, plum flavors in front of a nondescript, narrow finish. Picks up some steam with time but fails to get over the hump. ——M.S.(9/1/2006)—— 82