The white 2006 Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre represents only the second vintage from a steep portion of this monopole where Chardonnay vines recently replaced the fir trees that had gone in after phylloxera. This plot represents Jadot’s last Chardonnay harvested in 2006, and Lardiere expects it to be last year after year. Pear, litchi, rose teal and brown spices are complimented by imposing palate opulence and give the impression of a superb-quality Gewurztraminer dosage. The richness and polish on display exhibit a depth and length amazing for young vines. Exotic it may be, but this amazing value need not be a stranger to the world’s tables: there are an ample 20 barrels of it. Who knows how it will keep, but its youthful generosity seems to recommend relishing it over the next 2-3 years.
The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.)
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