Von Hovel Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule 3 star

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The reason for the three stars on the label of von Kunow’s 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule ***, he explains, is to drive home the point that this auction lot is a long gold capsule Auslese. (There being, of course, no standardization of capsule length, saying so makes it so!) Intense, high-toned aromas of lemon oil, peach, and kirsch combine with slightly prickly notes of botrytis. The palate impression is one of compressed fruit density and near severity of botrytis concentration. Meaty, musky, malty expressions of ennobled fruit vie with persistent lemon oil, distilled fruit, brine, and a faintly smarting pungency in the voluminous and penetrating finish. Is it simply the case that the beast in this savagely intense wine needs to be soothed by time? I suspect as much. Also recommended: 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($36.00; 86), 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett ($20.00; 85).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463