Although medium-bodied, crisp, and elegant, the 2003 Pinot Grigio is not as impressive or long as the Pinot Bianco. The Tiefenbrunner family, which has been producing wines for nearly 35 years, has a well-deserved reputation for offering richly fruity, crisp, steely whites that are representative of their varietals, and are bottled early to preserve their freshness as well as bouquet. This white should be consumed over the next year. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620