Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Eiswein, Mosel, Germany

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In a procedure I have never encountered, the Loewen team was able to cull out Beerenauslese in relative darkness, then harvest Eiswein from the same parcel as dawn broke and the mercury dropped. The resulting Beerenauslese was sharply citric, radish-like, and rather alkaline as well as candied in its sweetness. It might revive the unconscious but I can’t really say how it might evolve. A somewhat surer bet would be the 2004 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Eiswein with its black tea and plum distillate aromas, intensely citric and candied sweet palate, and intense if slightly unruly finish. Sock this away for at least a decade before revisiting.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300