For a wine with only 9% alcohol, this is surprisingly full bodied, with plenty of weight and richness. A bit of kerosene marks the nose, alongside scents of spice and bergamot, while the flavors run toward apple and citrus. It’s a bit sweet (29 g/l residual sugar), but balanced by decent acidity, and it ends in a long, mouthcoating finish. Drink now–2015, possibly longer.——J.C.(9/1/2008)—— 90