The Feiler-Artinger 2006 Blaufrankisch - vinified in tank, then matured in fuder - is generously black fruited, with invigorating salt and cherry pit accents, and finishes with a combination of intensity and refreshing lightness that invite the next sip and a regular place on one's table over the next couple of years. This wine also underlines the versatility of Blaufrankisch, which in this version reminds me a bit of the style in several parts of the world where this grape is known as Lemberger. Surprisingly, not only is it 13.5% in alcohol (I would have guessed a degree less), but it arrived there via chaptalization, which Feiler admits could probably have been minimized. (The candied fruit effect, accentuated bitterness, and drying worked by the wood rendered Feiler's ostensibly superior 2006 Blaufrankisch Umriss less enjoyable to my palate, characteristics shared by several other recent Feiler reds I tasted but have not recommended.) Feiler-Artinger's dry whites have generally not especially impressed me, but that is changing.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com
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