Dirler-Cade's 2006 Pinot Gris Kessler is overtly mushroom- and peach scented, and those elements also dominate on a slightly sweet, oily-textured, and salt-suffused palate. A welcome sense of primary juiciness helps - along with the salinity - to render this satisfyingly, even surprisingly sappy, saliva-inducing, and refreshing despite its obvious botrytis influence and its sweetness. At this point, though, it doesn't seem to be justifying its segregation as a -grand cru- bottling, and I would in any case expect it to need drinking over the next 2-3 years. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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