Domaine Dirler-Cade Pinot Gris Kessler, Alsace Grand Cru, France

凱德酒莊凱斯勒灰皮諾干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2244

Pungent smokiness and malted, honeyed, nutty, creamy richness characterize the Dirler 2005 Pinot Gris Kessler, a wine of only modest sweetness considering it is carrying more than fifty grams of residual sugar (but already at over 14% alcohol) and only modest acidity. Any who find folds of fat unsightly should avoid this, but make no mistake about the meatiness and succulence that abound beneath its surface. Expect a hamster-like, initially hibernative evolution of 10-12 years for this concentrated and impressively persistent beauty. So enormous is the range of wines nowadays grown at the combined Dirler and Cade domaine that I did not have the time to taste them all. (All of those I did taste are at least mentioned in the text.) Along with the involvement of the new generation – Jean Dirler and his wife Ludivine (nee Cade) – the entire domaine has been farmed biodynamically since 1998 (and parts of the Kessler and Kitterle with horse), a factor the family thinks especially beneficial given the climatic extremes that have prevailed in recent years. Riesling and Pinot Gris are generally fermented in foudre here, and other whites usually in tank. Very few families of Alsace wine have exhibited long-term the consistent quality and age-ability one can expect of those bottled under the Dirler name.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185