Weingut Carl Loewen Varidor Riesling Qba Trocken, Mosel, Germany

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The Loewen 2009 Riesling trocken Varidor – about whose nickname and vine origins see reviews of previous renditions – is scented with peat and wet stone along with yellow plum. Subtly creamy in texture and marrying stuffing to lift, it finishes with undeniable austerity (the higher-acid 2008 finished just above legal-Trockenheit in residual sugar) yet impressive grip and memorable mineral flavors. I suspect this will be best drunk over the next couple of years simply because I see the potential for it to become leaner rather than more lush. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300