The 2008 Fumin Esprit Follet is the most powerful wine I tasted from La Crotta di Vegneron this year. The wine shows admirable depth in its jammy dark fruit, earthiness, spices and underbrush, but less elegance and polish than the estate's finest bottles. La Crotta di Vegneron is a great source for readers who want to discover the uniqueness of the Valle d'Aosta. The wines remain exceedingly well-priced considering the quality of what is in the glass. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060; Belvino Imports LLC, Solon, OH; tel. (440) 715-0076