The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos sees 24 months in stainless steel, of which half is on the fine lees. It has a lifted, yellow flower and walnut-scented, rather smoky bouquet that is harmonious and detailed. It actually gains intensity in the glass with just a few swirls. The palate is well balanced with a strong saline component, but then it clams up towards the structured finish as if to say, come back in 2-3 years, which you should. This is one to watch.
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