A classic Russian River white, the 2005 Chardonnay Laguna Vineyard possesses plenty of tropical fruit and honeysuckle characteristics along with notions of smoky oak and hazelnuts, and an attractive, long finish. Occasionally lost in the focus on the enormous size of the Gallo empire is how good many of their wines can be, not to mention a bevy of terrific values. The following cuvees are all sensational bargains. Pinot Noir is often over-priced because of the number of outrageously expensive red Burgundies in the marketplace. Hence, finding a good Pinot Noir for under $50, much less $20 is virtually impossible. Gallo has delivered what may be the finest bargain in Pinot Noir in the marketplace.Tel. (707) 433-2458

The high acidity on this Chard makes your mouth water. It’s not a lush, opulent wine, but it is complex, with green apple, lime zest and mineral flavors enriched with oak and lees. Elegant and well-structured. Drink now. ——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 87