This medium weight wine shows complex dark plum, toast, tar and cocoa notes, but there is also a decidedly sauvage element, and this gamy note won’t appeal to all tasters. Dense black-cherry, plum and licorice flavors, brisk acidity and full, ripe tannins round out the package. Has impressive qualities, but also controversial ones. Cellar until 2005.——W.E.(4/1/2001)—— 87