The Deux Montille 2007 Pouilly-Fuisse Vergisson represents their first wine of this appellation to specify its village of origin. Lime and apricot rise from the glass and are tinged with salt, chalk, and iodine on a refined palate. This finishes with plenty of vivacity, lift, and refreshment, and ought to be well worth following for at least 3-4 years. In the course of its six years, this negociant business of siblings has mourned the loss of a few excellent contracts, but continues to be an expanding source of impeccably rendered, consistently nuanced (and almost exclusively white) Burgundies. Alix de Montille puts special emphasis on ferreting out excellent sites in the less fashionable villages of the Cote d'Or, as well as in the Cote Chalonnaise. The resulting wines are expensive relative to their appellations but not to their quality. (For more about Alix de Montille's approach – avowedly influenced by that of her husband, Jean-Marc Roulot – readers are urged to consult my report in issue 180.)Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
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