Dr. Crusius Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Nahe, Germany

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The Crusius 2007 Traiser Rotenfels Riesling Spatlese trocken displays smoky, saline characteristics typical for its site; a satisfyingly juicy apple and grapefruit matrix; and attractively rich, low-toned suggestions of toasted nuts. In its unemphatic way, it typifies the house style, and will be best enjoyed within 3-4 years. The understatement as well as often soft edges of Peter Crusuis’ Rieslings render them less dramatic than those of his best-known Nahe neighbors, but they can display a charm all their own. That was less often the case in a 2007 vintage marked by an unusual degree of botrytis, and that culminated (at least Oechsle-wise) in a protracted range of very sweet wines most of which left me disappointed. Even Crusius’ Rotenfels Kabinett pointed toward botrytis (losing a bit of clarity in the process), and from there up in Oechsle and residual sugar, the influence of noble rot is yet more obvious and the wines generally honeyed and rounded.Importer: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500