The Nigl 2007 Gruner Veltliner Kremser Freiheit was harvested only a few days after the Gartling, but evinces considerably more richness of texture, yet every bit as much vivacity and refreshment. This has the pungency and snap of an herb- and peppercorn-strewn salad of cucumber, apple, snap peas, and green beans, and finishes with invigorating salinity and mineral cut. Any experiencing cognitive discord at the thought of a wine from Austria's national grape that is in one sense as green as its name and dominated by flavors of vegetables, yet doesn't in the least taste under-ripe or vegetal, need to experience this 11.5% alcohol example. By the way, Nigl estimates that nearly 60% of his 2007 production of Gruner Veltliner is in his two lightest bottlings. After Martin Nigl's decidedly mixed results in 2006 - especially a series of Rieslings with high alcohol and heat - it was a pleasure to taste a more typical vintage for him in 2007, where even the richest wines (and there are some sumptuous beauties) are refined and full of intricacy and intrigue. Nigl assures me that to achieve this required more selectivity than in either of the two previous vintages. This year's collection offers in particular a magnificent example of Gruner Veltliner's versatility and ability to make complete, evocative statements across a range of weight classes. What's more, few wines can beat Nigl's 2007 Gruner Veltliner for value.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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