Binyamina Reserve Zinfandel, Galilee, Israel

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The 2009 Zinfandel Reserve is a single vineyard zin aged for 14 months in a mixture of French and American oak. Sharp, tart and high toned, this does show some power, together with rather sweet, candied notes. It was hard to warm up to this, and I found my mouth wrinkling a few times, which is too bad because I rather liked its backbone and ideas. Perhaps a little time will help it out. Drink now-2017. Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, N.J.; tel: (718) 534-0118.